The Phoenix Nest

Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, near Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec

Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, near Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec

A Target Destination on the Phoenix's Grand Fossil Tour

By Jim Fulton

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Abstract

I stayed four nights at Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, near Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec, in order visit Miguasha National Park, a lagerstätte for the Devonian Period. That period is known as "The Age of Fishes", and fish were well-represented in park's collection. But what was more remarkable were some late lobe-finned fish on the verge of evolving into tetrapods.

Page Prerequisites
Page Specifications
Id Flights_GFT_2018_0823
Title Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, near Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec
Subtitle A Target Destination on the Phoenix's Grand Fossil Tour
Keywords Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec, Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, Miguasha National Park, STORY
Author Jim Fulton
Author's URL https://fenixnest/Phoenix/
Copyright 2018
Status Published: 2018/9/15
Last Revised 2018-09-15

Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec

Arrived 2018/8/23
Day of Tour 397
Nights Stayed 4
Departed 2018/8/27
Map miles from last stop 283
Mileage on arrival 42,350
Actual miles from last stop 400
Accumulated miles for trip 23,833

I stayed four nights at Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer, in Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec, in order visit Miguasha National Park, a lagerstätte for the Devonian Period. That period is known as The Age of Fishes, and fish were well-represented in park's collection. But what was more remarkable were some late lobe-finned fish on the verge of evolving into tetrapods.

Page Contents

Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec

Carleton-sur-Mer is a resort community along the north shore of Chaleur Bay, off the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In many ways the town reminded me of the winter-time resorts along the Gulf Coast. It was August and tourists were in season, water sports and bicycles were in vogue, and everyone (but me) was outside soaking up some rays (filtered as they were through a light haze that reminds us that a continent is not too far for the fires of British Columbia to be noticed).

This was the first time since arriving in Canada that I truly felt like a furriner! I don't speak French, beyond simple expressions — bon jeur, merci, and the like — and they, that is, almost everyone in this locale that I encountered, didn't speak English. The staff at the campground spoke enough English to get me registered, and I was able to read off a menu well enough to get food at a burger stand. But engaging in conversation was a whole different matter; and since I had no internet at the campground, with which to get onto social media, I was completely out of communication with the world. The best I could do was write down what I wanted to say for later uploading to the web.

The Journey to Carleton-sur-Mer

It was a 5-hour drive to Carleton-sur-Mer from Amherst, Nova Scotia, through eastern New Brunswick. The route skirts the coastline, but not so close as to have to wind around little estuaries and bays. For the most part the terrain was coastal plain, built up from silt from the hills to the west. Few significant hills were visible until the road turned west toward Campbellton, where at the western end of Chaleur Bay, the land wrinkles as it wraps around the estuary, like the corner of an old man's eye.

Map of Journey to Carleton-sur-Mer

Map to Carleton-sur-Mer
Route of Journey to Carleton-sur-Mer, Quebec, from Amherst, Nova Scotia

Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer

The campground at Carleton-sur-Mer is sun-drenched in the summer, and therefore very popular among sun-starved Québécois. Like a number of campground I saw in Florida, it is laid out on an almost tree-less peninsula, a narrow triangle of land that extends from the east to form a protecting side of the city's harbor.

The campground is large. It runs about a kilometer along the peninsula, with loops of campsites, three or four rows deep, all along, and all of them full of the full range of campers, from young families in tents to retirees in their giant motorhomes. The sites themselves are ample in size, thus distinguishing this resort from their tightly packed Florida counterparts. There was plenty to do, from the beach along the south, to the bike path along the north, to the huge playground in the middle. They don't have a swimming pool, but that seems no to deter campers.

Only three problems marred my stay: First was the all-too-familiar lack of adequate wifi. I could connect to their wifi, but couldn't get to the internet. Ah well, only four nights. Second was a problem with my reservation. I had had to alter my original reservation to come in a day later, due to a delay in getting a part for my truck. When I arrived at the campground, I found that they had double-booked my site. Exactly what happened never quite got through the language barrier into my ears and brain, but they had to put me into one site the first night and into a second for the remaining three. A nuisance for me, and definitely the kind of annoyance that irritates the bureaucrats behind the counter.

An that brings us to the third problem, which is the language barrier itself. I had naively expected a higher level of bilingualism in a province surrounded by the English speaking, especially in a resort area. As it is in the real world, everyone can muddle through a normal course of events. But when a problem pops up, the communication needs exceed capabilities. For example, when I tried to call the park to negotiate a change of reservation, what I got was a message in French that was sonorous but utterly uncommunicative.

Photo Gallery for Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer

Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Camping de Carleton-sur-Mer
Address Avenue du Phare
Carleton-sur-Mer QC G0C 1J0
Canada
Home Page http://carletonsurmer.com/
Phone (418) 364-3992‬
Associations
  • none
Rate (net US$) $27
Features
Amenities
  Sewer Fire-Ring
Picnic Table   Paved Patio
  Pull-through Back-in
  Paved Gravel
 
Site Type
Lane Surface
Site Surface
  Paved Gravel   Grass    
  50 30   20
Playground Swimming   Golf
  Tennis Waterfront   Other
Power
Play Areas
 
Reviews (as of 2018/9/5)
Reviewer
 
Rating Out of
(Highest: Best - 1: Worst)
RV Park Reviews 9.2 Excellent 10
Good Sam n/r 10
KOA n/a 5
Tripadvisor 4.5 5
Phoenix 8 10
Attractiveness 9 10
Tree Cover 2 10: Dense - 1: Treeless
Site Size 9 10
Ease of Access 7 10
WiFiPhoenix 1 10
Pros
  • Beautiful, sun-drenched park in water-side setting
  • Ample family activities
Cons
  • Language barrier
  • Error in reservation
  • Wifi could not connect to internet.

Miguasha National Park

As a marker of the history of the Earth, Miguasha National Park provides a window into the Devonian Period of around 380 million years ago. Thus it is younger than the Ediacaran and Cambrian fossil sites of Newfoundland, and older than the Carboniferous sites of Nova Scotia.

The fossil site itself is another tide-washed cliff, not nearly as imposing as others I have reported on. As elsewhere taking fossils if you do find them is forbidden, and you are unlikely to find any if you look along the cliffs, because the staff are constantly harvesting them as they emerge. I did take a tour of the cliffs, conducted by Donna, whose English was good enough to answer the laymen's questions asked by our small party of three.

The park museum was definitely worth my time. The Devonian is known as the Age of Fishes, and the collection, almost all from the park itself, displayed the full range of fish evolution, omitting only the jawless and the cartilaginous fishes:

As usual, I show only a few fossil photos here, and reserve the rest for the virtual museum I plan for the future.

Photo Gallery for Miguasha National Park

Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
The Devonian Fossil Cliffs at
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Bothriolepsis canadensis
Placoderm
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Scaumenacia curta
Ray-Finned Fish
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Eusthenopteron foordi
The "Prince" of Miguasha
Lobe-Finned Fish, Almost a Tetrapod
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Elpistostege watsoni
The "King" of Miguasha
Lobe-Finned Fish, Almost a Tetrapod
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Acanthostega gunnari
Tetrapod
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Ichthyostega stensioei
Tetrapod
Miguasha National Park
Miguasha National Park
Micromelerpeton credueri
Tetrapod
Miguasha National Park

Onward

My next stop after leaving Carleton-sur-Mer was Quebec City, which served as a resting place on my way west.

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